Thailand (episode 2)

Sorry about this long silence but we escaped to some semi-deserted islands for 8 days of peace and we didn't have access to the internet there...
So, Thailand! We left it yesterday on a boat which took us from Lipe island in Thailand to Langkawi island in Malaysia, an odd disneyfied resort place famous for being a duty-free zone... it was a compulsory stop from a customs point of view, but we are leaving this afternoon for Penang island, further South, where we hope to find a more authentic Malaysia. We are catching a plane from Singapore to Darwin, in Australia on the 12th of February, and our wanderings around Asia are drawing to an end.
After re-entering Thailand we spent a couple of days in Chiang Mai (where we arrived after crossing over from Laos), visiting its numerous Wats (buddhist temple complexes) and wandering in its alleyways to keep away from the burning sun. Then we slowly made our way South to Bangkok, on buses and trains, stopping along the way in the historical towns of Sukhothai and Ayuthaya, and in Lopburi, where we were hoping to meet the mischievous troupe of resident macaques, and to take a picture of our two monkeys with their mates. We did, and we shall put the results online as soon as we can.
After a very short stop of a few hours in Bangkok we got back on the overnight train to Trang, in the South of the Thai peninsula, from where we got a bus, a share taxi and a (speed)boat (very scary!!) to the paradise island of Ko Tarutao, part of the National Marine Park sharing its name. There we found white sand beaches that squeek under your feet, palm trees, jungle, waterfalls, macaques, birds and other wildlife, and not many other tourists!! It was fantastic... We met some crab-eating macaques who found it easier to scavange bins than to go hunting, and a bespectacled langur, a type of black ape with white circles around its eyes, which enjoyed sneaking into the girls' loos to admire itself in the mirror! That said, the Park is run in a very responsible way, water and electricity are limited, they use solar power and most of the wildlife is very shy, despite the examples given further up...
After a few days of getting sunburnt (ouch!) we took another boat (with a reasonable speed this time) towards Ko Adang, another island inside the Park, a little more developped and less peaceful, but perfect for snorkelling around the coral reefs that surround it.
Then yesterday we took a "longtail boat", the local taxi, to Ko Lipe, a pretty island (which is now spoilt and overdevelopped because, although it is part of the National Park, it has been open to private development... Ko Adang is slowly getting built up by the NP authorities, but let's hope that private investors and tourist dollars don't end up getting the better of the remaining pristine islands...) in order to hop to Malaysia. Our passports got stamped by people in shorts sitting under a palm-leaf shelter otherwise used for music bands when they play at night! Then we got the ferry to Langkawi, where these words are reaching you from.
So, what to say about Thailand... things are definitely turned towards the future there, your train ticket shows a date in 2051! Yes, the buddhist calendar is used and that is the official year.
Everywhere are photos (not always most flattering) of the King Rama IX, who is a very well loved and respected figure. Crimes of lese-majeste carry a seven year jail sentence, which is why I waited to mention this in chosen words. Thailand is a constitutional monarchy, like England, where there is an elected government, the King being head of state. The King's Sister died shortly before our first stay in Bangkok, and in every public building you find shrines and exhibitions and portraits as an hommage to her. The Royal Anthem is played at 8.00 am every morning in streets and stations, and you are expected to stand in silence while it plays... which we didn't know and suddenly realised that we were the only ones talking in the railway station...ooops...!
So you see many portraits of the King, and nearly as many Wats and monks, as the country is 95% buddhist. Becoming a monk is one of the best esteemed carreers a boy can achieve. They get reserved seats on trains and stations, and must not sit next to a woman or lower than anyone else.
And then there are pigeons and 7/11s, sure signs of westernisation... There is a big contrast between the plump schoolgirls of Bangkok buying their afternoon snacks from the 7/11 and the people living in shantytowns bordering railway lines amongst piles of rubbish and packs of stray dogs. Thailand, like China, seems to be a two speed country.
There are also a few customs that we are used to by now : taking off our shoes before entering guesthouses, shops and people's homes, and replying to the polite thank you that people address to you with their hands in front of their face in a prayer-like gesture by doing the same back.
There you go! All about Malaysia next time. Take care XXX